To explore the full potential of wool felting, Swiss designers Alix Arto and Emma Casella have partnered together with Chinese designer and material researcher Yihan Zhang. Examining the anthropological significance of pastoral fibers, the project celebrates felting as a bridge between tradition and innovation while blending local cultures with international techniques and regional materials. Collaborating with shepherds, fiber processors and craftspeople, the project also addresses the undervaluation of diverse wool breeds through a felt database, while highlighting the material’s sustainable qualities.
The wool trade between Asia and Europe carries a long history of cultural exchange and commerce, tracing back to the origins of ancient Eurasian nomadic peoples. Today, however, the rise of synthetic fibers has caused a significant decline in wool prices, and the shrinking wool market has impacted animal husbandry, leading to economic losses for herders. In their research for the Herding Wool project, three designers discovered that the fashion industry focuses on only a few wool varieties prized for their softness and suitability for clothing. Meanwhile, most native sheep breeds are primarily raised for meat and dairy production, or in Europe for landscape management, resulting in the undervaluation of their wool.
In this project, the three designers collected fiber samples from 50 native livestock breeds across Switzerland and China through field research, while rediscovering the foundational practices of human expertise associated with wool.
They visited local wool communities, nomadic groups, and pastoral cooperatives to study and document diverse traditional processing techniques for native wools. By collaboratively developing experimental household items with these communities, they explored the potential of different indigenous wools—reimagining novel applications for this versatile material.
Ongoing Workshop continues in Shanghai, Milan, Zurich, Hangzhou, Chongqing, Basel......